The 1850s
This decade is distinguished by wider skirts and extra decoration, reflecting ebullience due to prosperity. Dresses were made with striped, checked, and plaid fabrics, with ruffles, flounces, lace, and fringe. Waistlines were mostly round, without points, and close to the natural waist. The basque is a common waist at this time. Shorter corsets freed the bosom. Early in the decade a full and soft fan front is seen, and chemisettes allowed for lower cut bodice fronts such as the habit-front bodice. Sleeves were open at the wrists, belled to mid forearm, and at their widest in 1857. Later they became more elaborate with upper arm caps or pleats, lower arm slashings, puffs, or ruffles, and fancier undersleeves. Undersleeves are associated more with this decade than any other. They were worn open, large, full, embroidered, edged in frilled whitework or lace, or gathered in puffs on the lower arm. The bishop sleeve came into fashion in 1858.
Exhibit Navigation
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<a href="http://digitallibrary.hsp.org/index.php/Detail/Object/Show/object_id/5001" target="_blank">Nurse Lucretia wearing a basque waist bodice. Enlarged reproduction of a 1/9 plate daguerreotype, circa 1856. </a>
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<a href="http://digitallibrary.hsp.org/index.php/Detail/Object/Show/object_id/6890" target="_blank">Illustrations of a lace chemisette, bretelles and sleeves, and a basque. Reproduction of page 66 of Godey's Lady's Book, Vol. 53, 1856.</a>
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<a href="http://digitallibrary.hsp.org/index.php/Detail/Object/Show/object_id/5371" target="_blank">Woman wearing fancy lace edged belled undersleeves and a fringed jacket. Enlarged reproduction of a 1/4 plate daguerreotype, circa 1856.</a>
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<a href="http://digitallibrary.hsp.org/index.php/Detail/Object/Show/object_id/6890" target="_blank">Illustration of an undersleeve for winter. Reproduction of a portion of page 547 of Godey's Lady's Book, Vol. 53, 1856.</a>
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<a href="http://digitallibrary.hsp.org/index.php/Detail/Object/Show/object_id/6071" target="_blank">Young woman wearing a striped dress with a natural waist. Enlarged reproduction of a 1/6 plate daguerreotype, circa 1859. </a>
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<a href="http://digitallibrary.hsp.org/index.php/Detail/Object/Show/object_id/5211" target="_blank">Cathrine Beeber Murty wearing bishop sleeves. Enlarged reproduction of a 1/6 plate daguerreotype, circa 1859.</a>


