1840s: Tapered bretelles were popular in the 1840s, as were pelerines, which were worn by all ages early in the decade, but only by older women later.

1850s: Bretelles remained in fashion.

1860s: Paletôt jackets, more sacque-like early in the decade but more fitted and belted at the waist later, were worn over skirt-and-waists. These jackets matched the skirt fabric, with buttons or knot-and-loops, as well as large coat or flared sleeves, and were always trimmed in military style with braid, ribbon, or silk cord. Spanish or bolero-style sleeveless jackets, waist length or shorter, with rounded fronts were also popular. With sleeves this was called a Zouave.